I first “discovered” the Villa Tiboldi in the summer of 2017. I was looking for a special place to base myself out of while exploring the Piedmont of Italy…or, more precisely, the Langhe region of the Piedmont Province, which encompasses some of the finest wine districts in the world….Barolo and Barbaresco, specifically. My criteria were like many who desire to spend some time in this region….live amongst the vines of a winery all the while sampling the wines and great cuisine of the area. What I came to discover though was that Villa Tiboldi gave me more…so much more.
Tucked up close to the small town of Canale, the Villa sits along the northern ridge of a steep Piedmontese valley. The vistas from the property are what you dream of in country like this……the methodically planted vines running parallel to the slopes like green corduroy, always positioned perfectly to capture the nourishing sunshine as it tracks across the sky. There is little wasted land…the vines come right up to the property and so, are intimate to the estate. This is a working farm…Malvira Vineyards to be precise, and while they offer tastings just down the hill at their winery, there are sights and sounds of grape production all around you…..workers lovingly tending the vines and tractors squeaking their way to and fro as the labors of the day necessitate….the baying of farm animals and roosters to remind you that the sun has risen. All that leads to an authentic experience and offers an exceedingly pleasant rhythm throughout the day.
Amongst the bucolic setting, rises Villa Tiboldi….a hodgepodge of structures….a formal and elegant three story manor house with a topping cupola to further command the view and a series of close by outbuildings which are all in brick and provide a warmth to the property. There is even a two apartment Annex which requires a ten minute hike through the vines to access….this was where I stayed on my first visit. There is even an ancient chapel from the 12th century at the entrance to the estate…to remind you that you are not the first to visit this beautiful locale. I’ve since stayed in all the sections of the estate and I can say that they are all charming….understated and comfortable and all with dreamy views. The service is relaxed and easy…attentive but not smothering. It sets the tone for an experience that eases your body and mind and perhaps, even your soul.
While the area offers exquisite wine and dining experiences and beautiful small towns like Alba, Bra and Barolo, you can just as easily just stay put and let the world pass you by. The pool is inviting, especially in the warm summer sun and there is service poolside (just a buzzer away) that allows you to stay put if you so choose…..and the views and vistas…well, they are always there. Breakfast is a lovely low key affair and is offered outside in their dining area where….notice the theme….once again, you have a commanding view of the valley and vines.
Dinner though is where Villa Tiboldi truly shines. Also served outside beneath extensive awnings to catch the cooling breezes and protect against the elements, it is both casual and formal at the same time. This is a well known restaurant in the area and so, it captures a lovely mixture of far flung travelers and local gentry. The menu is small but bold….things you just don’t expect to see from a small kitchen like this and the presentation is exquisite. The night is full of tasty gifts from the Chef to further enhance the experience. And then there is George who serves, admirably, as a sommelier and waiter..but is so much more. George, who I met nearly two years ago, is armed with a festive personality and flair that makes the meal more a performance and less just sustenance. He will quickly pair a local wine for you from an extensive, voluminous wine list, let you know what you should really have versus what you think you might like (trust me, this is a charming and very important part of your evening) and carve and finish a tomahawk steak for you table-side, all the while offering delightful conversation. The staff is never far away and always professional and here is the thing, if you order more wine than you can finish, it is just a short walk…mere feet actually, until you are back in your nicely appointed suite to continue the night.
So, Villa Tiboldi is my sweet spot…the sweetest really. A combination of elegance and ease…a place to base your travels in this amazing region or do nothing at all. It conforms to you and not the other way around….always there to drift through the day with you or ease you after touring. It is…well….perfect.