First things first….Rome is absolutely my favorite large city in the world. Its combination of history, architecture, food/cuisine, style, physical beauty, shopping and climate make it especially attractive for me. So why haven’t I written about it until now? I’ve completed well over a dozen “Walks” for “Flaneurlogue” to date, and only now am getting to the Eternal City.
To be honest…..Rome is so so much……and frankly, what can I add to the conversation about the Roman Forum, Colosseum, the Pantheon and the other Roman antiquity sites that hasn’t already been said, exhaustedly? So after months of contemplation, I’ve decided to tell the story of two neighborhoods of Rome…both equally attractive to me and yet, not within the sphere of those “must sees” listed above.
I first visited Trastevere in late 2016…on a trip with my brother to take the edge off a life changing event…well, it seemed that way at the time but then, don’t they all….until they are not, of course. So, off we went on a little heart soothing journey …first, to Venice, where I fell while running on slippery cobbles my first morning and took a layer off my face, broke a tooth and severely bruised my chest…actually crushed my IPhone into my chest to be exact…..keep that in mind when viewing these photos…because of my crushed phone, they were mostly taken with an iPad……yes, I am that guy.. Anyway, not a good start. But, although I looked horrific and garnered a lot of very awkward and, frankly humorous stares at the scab that had previously been my face, I was there to heal in another way and so after an otherwise, fun Venetian holiday, we set off to Rome by the Frecciaroasa (Red Arrow) fast train. Venice was my brother’s choice and Rome had been mine.
The last time I had been in Rome, I was a young teenager…all of 13. It had been a sublime experience and Rome stuck with me deeply from that trip. All the things you expect to see in Rome, I did. This time though, my oldest brother was with me and he had spent a summer in Rome in the mid-1970s taking post-graduate courses from a small, exclusive academic institute in central Rome near the Spanish Steps. So, I had someone who really knew a different Rome…and that is why we decided on Trastevere.
As I often do, I like to intertwine the history with the place…..and really, how can you not in the case of Rome? Trastevere has an interesting subset of history though….it’s name literally means, in Italian, “across or beyond the Tevere”, the Italian name for the Tiber River. In the very early days, beginning with the Etruscans and then Romans in the first century BC, there was very little of significance on this side of the river. In time, it was settled by mostly Jews and various Middle Eastern ethnic groups. The first synagogue in Rome is located here and the structure still exists…dating from approximately 1000 AD. Because of this isolation “beyond the Tevere”, and the unique ethnicity, Trastevere has a different feel than the rest of Rome, even to this day.
The layout of its streets are different as well….very narrow and cobbled…it is a maze of narrow passageways filled with small residences and shops, restaurants and bars. There are notable churches, the American University of Rome is also located here. As you move up the hills above Trastevere to the west, there are many notable overlooks giving you incredible views of central Rome to the east and St Peters Basilica just to the north on the same side of the Tiber River. What makes Trastevere so charming for me are the winding, narrow streets…walking these allows you the ability to hear the residents in their day to day voice….you really can’t help but overhear conversations all around you….it gives this part of the city a vibrancy by day. By night…it takes on a different feel….Trastevere becomes a place full of indoor/outdoor cafes and restaurants and many, many bars and watering holes..and music….it tends to be a younger crowd…a bit louder and with even more energy.
There are a few hotels in Trastevere…they tend to be modestly priced and comfortable…3 Stars, for the most part. As you move up the hill, they become more exclusive and nicer…but this is not the area of the city for luxury accommodation. For my visit, I stayed in an AirBnb along the Via della Scala…one of the main streets coming into Trastevere….almost more an alley than a street though…and not a straight stretch anywhere. My flat was on the third floor with additional space in the attic…reachable after a treacherous climb up a narrow, dimly lit, winding stairway….small and not to be confused with plush by any measure but very charming with a small balcony out back. The host, Fabio, was a boisterous man at least in his 60s but perhaps north of that….what he missed in smoothness and style, he more than made up for in pure energetic, jovial hospitality…that I remember his name speaks volumes for his genuine joy in greeting us. Since it was the Christmas season, he provided us with a Panettone….an Italian Christmas tradition…essentially a massive cupcake…..pretty good and it went well with the Prosecco he also left with us.
As I said, there are a lot of restaurants in this area….I’ll talk to two of them….one on the margins of Trastevere and the other actually just across the Tiber and downstream so still outside of traditional Rome and very close to Trastevere. I found the first, on a later trip, through some exhaustive research from my son…..we are both in the drone/surveillance business when we aren’t traveling and so it was found using some of those skills….. Restaurante Pizzeria Roma Sparita was highlighted by Anthony Bourdain during one of his two shows he did on Rome. He billed it as the finest place to get Cacio e Pepe in Rome…..this being the signature dish of Rome…in Rome, every restaurant has this dish. The only problem was that Mr. Bourdain purposely didn’t reveal the name or location of the restaurant…”in a effort not to ruin it”. He was most certainly right about the dish…simple and yet sublime…rich Pecorino Romano cheese and pepper and thick pasta cords….in a formed Parmigiano cheese bowl. Well worth the effort to locate…you can find it on Piazza Santa Cecilia, 24 Roma.
The other restaurant is more about the location although it is a fun place and a very good menu…a very local family type place. As I said, it is not in Trastevere but is so unique that I want to include it here. Restaurante Flavio al Velavevodetto is located in Testaccio…very near Trastevere…Via Monte Testaccio 97, to be precise. It’s specialties are Cacio e Pepe, of course because we are in Rome, but also Carbonara….delicious, with pasta, egg, hard cheese, pork and black pepper. What makes this place interesting though is it’s location and history of that location. When Testaccio began as a place, it was a Roman harbor town along the Tiber…the farthest point of Rome downstream towards the sea..and the farthest upstream that large boats could navigate…..part of the reason Rome is located where it is I would guess. What they primarily offloaded here was wine, transported from all over the Mediterranean in clay vessels called amphorae. These were one way transports and they were broken up and piled up as wine continued to be moved into Rome over centuries. This pile grew into a small “mountain of amphorae”….and Restaurante Flavio al Velavevodetto is dug into the huge hill of clay shards. It is one of the most unique restaurant settings anywhere.
While Trastevere brackets the central historical core of Rome primarily to the south, the area of the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Popolo serve as the bracket to the north. Where Trastevere is more rustic and quaint, the Spanish Steps area is polished and opulent…filled with lovely grand hotels, glorious churches, storied highlights like the Trevi Fountain, high end creative restaurants and world class shopping, especially between the Spanish Steps and the Via Corso.
Though it is less about antiquities in this area, the Mausoleum of Augustus Caesar is well within this neighborhood and has just recently completed an extensive restoration…it has been closed since the 1970s and had long been in disrepair. It is the largest circular mausoleum in the world and it will be a feature of anyone visiting this amazing city from now on. It’s history over the years is interesting in itself….until recently, preservation of antiquities were not a priority…this is a more modern phenomenon….and so, the Mausoleum has been a fortress, a bull fighting ring, a theatre and even a famous European music hall; it amazes me that some of the treasures actually survived given their neglected, abused history. Another place I highly recommend is the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Museo Nazionale Romano….more easily remembered as the Roman National Museum, located very near Roma Termini, the main train station for Rome. I had wondered where all those art pieces, statues, murals and such had ended up and low and behold, this Museum is one of the main beneficiaries of this true treasure trove of Roman art and architectural greatness. While this is slightly outside of the Spanish Steps neighborhood, I wanted to share this, as it is truly a breathtaking display of the greatness of ancient Rome.
Other than that though, this area is primarily about creature comforts…restaurants, bars and shopping in and among one of the most beautiful parts of this amazing city. Over the years, I’ve spent extended periods in this area in differing times of the year and have never been disappointed. While the Roman Forum, the Coliseum, Pantheon and Circus Maximus command tourists attention, as they should, this is where I prefer to be….honestly, those sites are just a 15-20 minute walk. There is a festive vibe here….Romans live here as well so while there are certainly tourists here, there are Romans living their day to day lives at their unique pace….I think that gives this area an authenticity that is to be cherished. On a morning walk, you encounter locals in a hurry…..diving into espresso bars to down a shot….Romans apparently aren’t much for breakfast….a quick espresso and a pastry perhaps….and so I mimic them each morning and it works. On my first morning out for a random walk, from my modest flat above the Via delle Carrozze, I move towards the Spanish Steps and once there, swing northwest and notice a street sign which is vaguely familiar….Via Margutta. Where have I heard this name? Then, it dawns on me…..”Roman Holiday” staring Gregory Peck and a very young Audrey Hepburn…..he lived on this street in the movie…Via Margutta 51….so…I find it . “Roman Holiday”, shot in 1953, is interesting in movie history as it was one of the very first movies shot on location and not a sound stage…and so well worth a look to see amazing views of post war Rome….a light hearted, delightful movie. And so my trip begins with a smile.
The other thing that makes this area so great are the restaurants and bars. While I’m generally a “one bar guy”, I love finding various restaurants to rotate through when I’m in a place for awhile and this area gives me many options. Within a ten by fifteen block area, there are innumerable restaurants of all levels from high dining to porchetta sandwich stands and even one breakfast place that is notable and rare. This breakfast spot is called VyTA Enoteca Regionale del Lazio…really a breakfast and lunch bar/restaurant…..an extremely well prepared and hearty breakfast menu…a more elegant lunch menu and a full bar serving both dining periods….great wines and prosecco all the while highlighting products from the Provence of Lazio, where Rome is located. This is well worth the visit and the people watching is first rate.
A block to the south is one of my favorites, Restaurante Life. It is much more formal….open for lunch and dinner, both with inside and outside dining…I enjoyed an especially wonderful lunch outside with my daughter on one visit. This is fine dining and service and not to be missed. From beef tartare and carpaccio to exquisite fish and pork dishes of the region, this is a special place. As you would expect, the wine list is extensive and the dessert cart is worth the calories….something I normally don’t do….but I do here. This is not an inexpensive restaurant but it is a sometime treat that should be part of your rotation.
And then there is a place called Da Gino al Parlemento…located right next to the Parliament Building….this is an experience. When you walk in, you are confronted by the maître d’ but, I am not sure that is the right word for what this guy is….he is certainly the head waiter but also the gatekeeper…he sings, he directs and in my case with my lovely then 22 year old daughter at my side, he charms. Dante, as I will call him, was a floor show unto himself…I have no idea what age he might be…I’m not sure it mattered. The next thing you notice is this is a very rustic place with almost “cheesy” Roman murals….everywhere…everywhere. In some places, this would be off putting but here, it just makes me smile, much like Dante. The wine list is basic….like you are drinking from someone’s personal wine stash, and the food is actually pretty great. As you would expect out of this type of spot, there is a menu and that is just a suggestion….Dante knows the menu and you have to ask politely…I lean on my cute daughter to get Dante to give us the inside on what we should eat….and he presents it that way…..Signore, you will have this and Signorina, I will bring you this. It is beyond charming. The food is delicious and we walk away laughing into the night…Dante is a game changer and a treasure.
There are a dozen other wonderful places in the area from basic Italian fare to high level cuisine….one thing though….the Italians are into Italian food….you don’t see that many other types of restaurants…as you would expect in a city this size. It took me awhile to get my arms around that concept. Another important point is that Italians and Europeans, in general, believe in seasonal eating……dine on food in their natural season and not as Americans often do where we ship in something resembling a tomato, for instance, in February, from God knows where, and act like it is good…..it isn’t. When I was in Rome during February, artichokes were in season and they were on every menu…..same thing for white asparagus when I visited Berlin many years earlier in April and May. They are at their most flavorful and thus, glorious.
While on a trip to Rome in February and March of 2018, I stumbled on a place that will forever be dear to my heart. Antica Enoteca is, equally, a restaurant and bar and also equally stunningly adept at being each. I started out visiting it as a restaurant and it was excellent but soon gravitated to the bar due to the incredible wine list by the bottle and glass and exquisite cocktails. And as I often do, I love having a bar to call my own and this was most emphatically it. The staff was great and fun and since I was there for almost two months, it became a place to connect. if you find yourself in Rome, I would recommend this whole heartedly.
On my first trip to this area, which was extended, I stayed in an Airbnb. It was modest but pleasant and in the heart of the Spanish Steps area on the Via delle Carrozze….equidistant between the Spanish Steps and Via Corso. Splendid shopping is a half a block away….Gucci, Cartier, every possible high end watch maker and fashion house is located here….if this is what you enjoy, you want to be here. At the end of that visit, my companion stumbled across an amazingly beautiful Art Deco designed bar……she was actually peering through the stained glass into the bar. Upon further investigation, I found out it was the bar of an iconic hotel called Hotel Locarno. The Hotel Locarno started it’s life in 1925….an old world design…..formal and grand…..there was even a movie made there by the same name in the 1970s…..many famous people have inhabited this hotel including Federico Fellini and Jack Kerouac….it has been a meeting place for movie makers and artists since it opened…and was occupied by the Germans in 1943 and the Americans after them.
When I returned to Rome next, I decided to stay at Hotel Locarno and I have to say, it is worth every penny. Beautiful rooms, great service and an outside courtyard in between the hotel buildings….it serves as a perfect place to enjoy a very well made cocktail and light fare. And, what I think makes it especially enjoyable is that well heeled Romans come here to enjoy a night out…so it makes it a local place as well and that always means amazing people watching. Since I have last stayed there, the hotel has added a rooftop bar….I can’t wait to go back to enjoy that experience. The hotel has bikes for loan and my daughter and I enjoyed pedaling around Rome on a Sunday morning..I highly recommend that but perhaps only on a Sunday when traffic is much less. The Hotel Locarno is just a block away from the Piazza del Popolo, Villa Borghese and the Borghese Gardens, a magnificent green space in urban Rome once owned by Pope Paul V’s nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese in the 1600s….it gives you a nice change of pace and is exceedingly beautiful. It is also within a 15 minute walk from Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon…..a quiet respite away from the high energy of Rome.
As with Trastevere, the area of the Spanish Steps, while not in the midst of the antiquities, is a very short walk to those sites. I think that is what I like most about these two areas….a living, breathing community in and amongst everyday Romans doing their Roman thing but also a 15 minute walk to those things in Rome that can’t be experienced anywhere else. To me, the pace of Roman life is what makes Rome unique….so amazingly unique…and what I am driven to come back to again and again. These two areas offer that in their own special way.