I’m not really a cruise guy although I know some who absolutely love them. For me, they are the antithesis of what I enjoy in travel…..rolling into a place which is lovely no doubt….piling off a ship with dozens of barely acquainted people and rushing around the town you are in with hopes of getting a feel for it within an allotted time…say six hours..and then piling back onto the ship in time for dinner. But of course, you don’t get a feel for the place and not even a little. The only good it does for me is as a reconnoitering tool for later travel perhaps.
So when I accompanied my older brother on a Mediterranean cruise two years ago, I knew it was probably not going to be exactly what I wanted…it was not bad by any measure and offered time to share with a dear brother but just not the way I like to travel even though the port calls were interesting; Sardinia, Portofino, Cannes, St. Tropez and finishing with Monaco.
So, I hedged my bets.
The cruise originated in the Italian coastal town of Civitavecchia; essentially the Cruise Port of Rome although it is quite a ways from Rome…50 miles to its center and 40 miles to Fiumicino Airport. Luckily for me and my brother, I had heard of a hotel just south of the port that was a destination unto itself.
The site of La Posta Vecchio (Old Postal house) was originally a Roman villa and ruins of that are still on display within the hotel….the hotel being built on top of the old villa. The current structure is from the 17th century and is in the style of a Renaissance palazzo…majestic and set tight along the Tyrrhenian coast. At some point, it caught the eye of one billionaire, J. Paul Getty, and he purchased it in the 1960s to serve as his seaside villa. Some years after that, it went back into Italian hands as a residence and eventually remodeled to serve as a hotel. All of its twenty-ish rooms are unique and furnished with 17th century tapestries and furniture befitting the setting. Ancient maps, marble sculptures and artwork are scattered about and it is a place that holds surprises at every turn.
The restaurant and cocktail bar are as spectacular as you would imagine and the veranda overlooking the sea serves as seating for the restaurant and also as a sun deck….very sublime. There is even an indoor pool located in an incredibly satisfying “greenhouse”…..not really…more like the most beautiful pool room ever. Expansive, but not overworked grounds, begged to be strolled in the early morning and late evening and I did just that….it is an amazing experience to stay at a place like this. Two or three days here does some very good things to one’s soul and I would go back as a side trip from Rome to balance off the busyness of that amazing city.
As I said earlier, the terminus for the cruise was Monaco and I have to say, that was a great way to end one….it is a magnificent place to glide into, although, because the port and country for that matter, are so tight, logistics in and out when a large cruise ship moors can be challenging. After some wait though and a few calls, our Mercedes from our hotel rolled up and we were whisked away and most of the wait was forgotten. There are, no doubt, some great hotels in Monaco and I am certain they would be worth a stay but we were on our way to a much more interesting, exclusive place.
The Château de la Chèvre d’Or (Chateau of the Golden Goat) sets on a precipice within the French coastal mountain town of Eze, equidistant between Monaco and Nice. I had discovered this town and hotel on a previous trip from a most bizarre drunken couple in a bar in Nice on Halloween…another story for another day…….and knew that one day, I would have to return and stay here.
The medieval village of Eze sits on a mountain 1,500 feet above the Mediterranean Sea. Because of this, it offers spectacular views of the azure coastline below. It is an otherworldly beautiful spot….a mountain town you would draw up if given the chance. The Hotel is midway up the hill, perched on a cliff on the southern side, giving it unobstructed views of the French Rivera. Since space is such a premium on this rocky crag, it is really a multi-leveled collection of suites…all unique.
Where La Posta Vecchio is a true grand hotel, Chèvre d’Or is much more casual….the rooms are comfy and well appointed but not plush. The truth is, you are there for the view and magnificent formal Michelin star restaurant, La Chèvre d’Or. There, the magic is found. True old world cuisine and service awaits you with a wine list to match….it is really a dining experience not to be missed. For lighter fare, Les Remparts, offers cocktails and snacks along it’s terrace and lunch and dinner in an outdoor setting….there is no more special location than this to enjoy a bite and drink. Amazingly enough, they managed to wedge a pool into this outcrop which makes relaxing even easier. Outside the hotel, it is well worth a steep stroll to the top of Eze….beautiful shops and restaurants await as does a beautiful chapel and even a graveyard at the very top….it is good to note that people actually live on this little maritime mountain and have for centuries.
A short drive from either Nice or Monaco, Eze and specifically, the Château de la Chèvre d’Or, is well worth a 2-3 day stay. Like La Posta Vecchio above, it has the capacity to take your breath away and relax you…to slow down your world in the best sort of way. Amazingly, while neither property is cheap, they aren’t untouchable either. For a little bit more, you can stay in a truly unique place…a one of a kind place…a destination unto itself. Your soul will thank you.