For some reason, I was late to the party about Spain. It seems as though I was always focused on Italy and southern France. They are certainly wonderful and worthy of mine, or anyone’s, love and attention, but I just didn’t seem to want to slide my focus to the west along the Mediterranean coast.
And then I saw Anthony Bourdain’s season nine episode of Parts Unknown on San Sebastián and it became clear I needed to go. His description of the Basque people…their ancient language….a proud sea culture…their incredibly special cuisine…their dogged determination to gain independence and the persecution that was a result….it made me want to understand this special corner of northeastern Spain. To me, this episode along with his work on the Italian Provence of Emilia-Romagna are his best.
So, I set out to make Spain and San Sebastián a destination…although it is curious that I picked San Sebastián…since it is trying it’s hardest not to be Spain. Besides that, one thing you quickly ascertain is that San Sebastián isn’t a particularly easy place to visit. Being tucked in the northeastern corner of Spain offers some logistical difficulties. I was determined though and so I set out from Nice, France for a little road trip. Two full days later and to be honest, some amazing scenery including the surprising academic and ecclesiastical city of Montpelier, France, we pulled into San Sebastián to see what makes this city so special.
The first thing you notice is the almost perfect, protected harbor….a huge ovoid bay, strongly shielded at its narrow mouth by rugged mountains….leafy green, craggy sentinels offer a treacherous entry….the circular coastline being almost all beach….it is crowded with sun dwellers during a hot August that I visited. This is a mixed group…couples enjoying a special beach weekend and families frolicking on the sand and surf….it makes for a very enjoyable vibe. There is a promenade that follows the curve of the beach and it is one of those great, old-style beach settings…..they’ve, no doubt, been strolling this path for many centuries before my visit and for those that can, it never gets old. As you might imagine, the people watching is exquisite as are the tasty delights….crispy churros dusted with sugar and cinnamon…kind of a Spanish beignet…and stops for lovely Spanish cava….I think every culture should be judged on the bubbly they produce.
After enjoying an afternoon at the beach, we cleaned up and headed out to the town. It is an ancient place….as are the Basque people. Long before the Romans first visited in the first Century BC, the Basque were entrenched in this corner of the Iberian peninsula and have withstood invaders and persecution ever since…the most notably recent being the Spanish dictator Francisco Franco. It is an odd fact that their language is extremely old and isn’t connected to any other language in Europe….that, perhaps, speaks to the quiet fortitude of the Basque people but also that this region is in an isolated nook of Europe. Thus, the Basque offer something unique…and that manifests itself especially in their cuisine. They are tied to the sea and have always been a “boat people”…….setting out to all spots around the Atlantic in search of fish to supply their people and also as trade…..and as whalers when that resource was utilized for oil. Now though, it is any and every delicacy that the ocean offers….along with their terrestrial delights from the region…cheeses, meats…both cured and fresh, that feeds their kitchens…honestly, the Basque are incredible at all things food.
What this means to me, you and anyone that visits is a food culture like no other. This is most readily evident by Pintxos (pronounced pin-cho and meaning “pierced”). Spain has tapas but they are a different thing…..usually a reduced serving of a normal dish….say, paella. Pintxos, though, are much more…..generally, it is a way to showcase a flavor…a texture…an aroma…or…all three….a special chorizo or a sautéed shrimp….perhaps a perfectly seared piece of duck or squid…..generally presented with great style and flair on a small piece of crusty bread and sometimes skewered with a toothpick to keep it together. Because the Basque put so much stock in quality ingredients, these Pintxos are bursting with flavor and go well, typically with a local white wine….or a cava. What makes it even more interesting is that the proper way to do this is not to stay at one place but essentially, move from one Pintxo Bar to another….a “crawl”. In doing so, you get to experience a wide variety of magnificent flavors…..each bar having their own specialities. Once you get the hang of it, and begin to blend into the habits of the locals…..well, it is a sublime experience. The best place to do this is in the “Old Town” of San Sebastián….a really beautiful and vibrant and compact area teaming with people doing the same as you. This is such a part of the culture that it is not to be missed.
Besides the sweeping beach and Pintxo crawl and exploring the Old Town, there is a trek up the mountain the guards the eastern side of the entrance to the bay…the Bahia de La Concha. At the top after a 20 minute steady climb, you come upon the Mota Castle. The Castle is moderately interesting but the view makes it worth the effort. If you have less aspirations, you can stop halfway and enjoy an adult beverage and snack at a cafe called Bar Polboriña…..to the honest, the view is almost as good and it is a nice place to just let it sink in just how beautiful a place this is.
One thing that never escapes you is the pride and fortitude of the Basque people. Their Ikurrina flag (a red, green and white flag resembling the British Union Jack) is evident everywhere and there is a long active separatist movement in open sight. The Basque are different….different from their French neighbors in Bordeaux, just to the north and the Spanish to the west and south. It speaks to their willingness to sacrifice everything to protect their culture….their language….their cuisine…their heritage. They have paid a large price but we are lucky to still have them in their little sliver of land on the European continent.